Home Improvement Thread
- Vrede too
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Re: Home Improvement Thread
Trump's election sure screwed you, JTA.
F' ELON
and the
FELON
1312. ETTD
and the
FELON
1312. ETTD
- billy.pilgrim
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Re: Home Improvement Thread
JTA wrote:Man oh man you guys. When it rains it storms.
So I was sitting on the shitter when I noticed my linoleum Looking like it had a crack in it. It's plasticy so it's not technically cracked, but if you run your fingers along it it feels like the concrete underneath is cracked. If I take up the carpet that's near the crack on the other side of the door, there's definitely a crack. The cracks don't feel even with one another (one side is a bit higher)
I have a slab foundation. House is thirteen years old.
Anyone ever have to fix a slab foundation. I know it's expensive.
All concrete slabs crack - no big deal. Only problem would be if your footing is sinking and causing the slab crack.
Mostly the cracking is due to 2 things
1 the placers adding water at the site so the concrete will be easier to move - hell, enough water and it moves itself. The mix left the plant likely at 2500 psi. Added water reduces the psi - often to 1500 psi.
2 concrete moves with temperature change. That is why there are expansion joints in your driveway, but there are none in your slab. The thinking is that the cracks will be covered by floor covering.
Again, no concern unless the footing is sinking. Let me know if it is.
Btw - insurance doesn't cover settling
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Re: Home Improvement Thread
Thanks for the info.
I'm going to keep an eye on it. The crack under the vinyl bathroom floor has always been there. I'm unsure if it's gotten worse. Or maybe my floor is just dirty and I noticed it more hah. My doors/windows seem to close just as they've always done. No cracks in my walls/ceilings indicating movement. The house is about thirteen years old. Seems like a foundation issue would've happened well before now. But you never know.
I'm going to keep an eye on it. The crack under the vinyl bathroom floor has always been there. I'm unsure if it's gotten worse. Or maybe my floor is just dirty and I noticed it more hah. My doors/windows seem to close just as they've always done. No cracks in my walls/ceilings indicating movement. The house is about thirteen years old. Seems like a foundation issue would've happened well before now. But you never know.
You aren't doing it wrong if no one knows what you are doing.
- billy.pilgrim
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Re: Home Improvement Thread
JTA wrote:Thanks for the info.
I'm going to keep an eye on it. The crack under the vinyl bathroom floor has always been there. I'm unsure if it's gotten worse. Or maybe my floor is just dirty and I noticed it more hah. My doors/windows seem to close just as they've always done. No cracks in my walls/ceilings indicating movement. The house is about thirteen years old. Seems like a foundation issue would've happened well before now. But you never know.
Doors and windows are good indicators. Sheetrock corner bead can fool you – it often cracks along the edge of the plastic and metal corners for a number of other reasons mostly related to installation
I don’t know your area’s preference, but many places leave the footing exposed and easy to inspect. I think it looks funny to have the brick start on top of the footing, but people do funny things.
I’ve done a lot of decorative residential interior concrete floors – most slabs in existing homes are cracked and most are not very reactive to an acid stain due to lower % portland – which is partly why they cracked in the first place. But the main reason is the monolithic slab without any expansion joints. Typical construction practice for this to be hidden covered over slab was for the cheaper single monolithic. I have worked on new construction where we saw cut 70% through the slab in a tile-like pattern to create weak joints for the inevitable cracks and then fill the saw cuts with grout.
Don’t worry, it is probably nothing, but if cracks start to move, or drop repairs can be made.
Be careful with contractors that do this work – the ones I have met seem to be on the wrong end of honesty.
The salespeople for these guys are out to make a living. I do not recommend calling them until you are sure that you must do something, but the website may give you a few tips.
http://www.olshanfoundation.com/
I should be able to answer most of your questions
Trump: “We had the safest border in the history of our country - or at least recorded history. I guess maybe a thousand years ago it was even better.”
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Re: Home Improvement Thread
A portion of the slab is exposed outside around the base of the house (like you mentioned). I don't see any large vertical cracks outside where the horizontal indoor floor crack would lead to if followed. It appears it's largest (although I can't verify because its under my vinyl tiles) a good 5 feet away from the outside wall then tapers back into a smaller crack which I can see if I lift up my carpet in the room it leads to.billy.pilgrim wrote:JTA wrote:Thanks for the info.
I'm going to keep an eye on it. The crack under the vinyl bathroom floor has always been there. I'm unsure if it's gotten worse. Or maybe my floor is just dirty and I noticed it more hah. My doors/windows seem to close just as they've always done. No cracks in my walls/ceilings indicating movement. The house is about thirteen years old. Seems like a foundation issue would've happened well before now. But you never know.
Doors and windows are good indicators. Sheetrock corner bead can fool you – it often cracks along the edge of the plastic and metal corners for a number of other reasons mostly related to installation
I don’t know your area’s preference, but many places leave the footing exposed and easy to inspect. I think it looks funny to have the brick start on top of the footing, but people do funny things.
I’ve done a lot of decorative residential interior concrete floors – most slabs in existing homes are cracked and most are not very reactive to an acid stain due to lower % portland – which is partly why they cracked in the first place. But the main reason is the monolithic slab without any expansion joints. Typical construction practice for this to be hidden covered over slab was for the cheaper single monolithic. I have worked on new construction where we saw cut 70% through the slab in a tile-like pattern to create weak joints for the inevitable cracks and then fill the saw cuts with grout.
Don’t worry, it is probably nothing, but if cracks start to move, or drop repairs can be made.
Be careful with contractors that do this work – the ones I have met seem to be on the wrong end of honesty.
The salespeople for these guys are out to make a living. I do not recommend calling them until you are sure that you must do something, but the website may give you a few tips.
http://www.olshanfoundation.com/
I should be able to answer most of your questions
Another reason I was worried is that side of the house the crack is on tends to accumulate water maybe 3 feet away from the base of my house when it rains hard. That side doesn't see much if any sunlight so the water evaporates much slower. It doesn't accumulate against my house though, which I understand would be cause for concern.
I am thinking about installing a french drain to help drain the water further away from the house as a precaution though, and to help drain that side of the yard better so it's not quite as soggy.
You aren't doing it wrong if no one knows what you are doing.